Viva España

So now I’ve been to Spain. As I sit here and write this, we are sitting off of Gibraltar to refuel. The last four days went by so fast, but have given me countless memories. Now that I’ve traveled with these people, my new friends seem as if I’ve known them for years.
On the first day, some of us had no trips booked, so we just got off of the ship and started walking through the old part of Cádiz. The narrow cobblestone streets form a maze, and it seemed easy to get lost, but we quickly got the hang of it. We saw the Cathedral, and climbed the tower for some excellent views of the city. Then we walked towards the ocean wall, and found a small park to sit at for a while. Spanish cities are filled with parks and open areas. After being in the close streets you need some fresh air. We left the park after a while and walked towards a fort we could see a little ways off. It was possible to get down on the beach, so we did, and it happened to be low tide. This left lots of pools exposed, where you could see sea urchins, snails, starfish, etc. As we got near the fort, we saw it was closed, but being low tide you could walk around the base of it. That was one of the coolest things I’ve done. By the time we got all the way around, the tide was noticeably higher, so we climbed onto the bridge and took that back to the city. By now we were hungry, so we went to a restaurant near the market for our first meal in Spain. I had Carne Mechada, basically a plate of roast beef. Ian and Laura each got a different kind of paella, a rice dish with a different kind of meat. Laura’s was chicken, Ian got seafood. I asked the waiter what the local beer was, and had one. It’s called Cruzcampo, and it pretty good. Some other Semester at Sea students were eating at the same place, and I couldn’t help but laugh when they were eating pizza and Heineken. I made it a goal, right then, to eat as little American food as possible. In Spain, that turned out to be an excellent idea.
After lunch, we went to an even larger park in the old part of town. It was incredibly beautiful, and filled with cats. Cádiz in particular, but also Sevilla, was filled with stray cats. We walked along the sea wall back to a large monument that we agreed to meet everyone at. Once assembled, we went out to look for a bar or restaurant. Spanish meal times are very different from ours, so at 5, nothing is open except for a few hole in the walls places with some old men drinking the day away. Nevertheless we went in, and those of us with limited Spanish were talking with the locals. We tried to inquire about nightlife, but they told us that Cádiz was a small town, and on a Wednesday night there wouldn’t be many clubs open. We hit some other places, at time splitting up, and later picking up two other guys from Semester at Sea. Our group headed back to the ship to eat, and then most people went on a trip to a Flamenco show that night. The few of us that did not go to that went out, and attempted to find a bar that a guy at the first bar gave us directions two. We knew that Cádiz is situated on a peninsula, so as long as you don’t walk out the main highway you can’t end up very far. After an hour or two, we gave up, and headed to the Cathedral, since PJ knew that there were bars there. By the way, bars in Spain are for the most part more like restaurants. Everyone drinks, but it is common to see entire families in them. Eventually we made it to the Cathedral. By this time I was starving, so I ate a meal of grilled pork and potatoes. We got a pitcher of Sangria for the table, and then after a while decided to call it a night.
The next morning, six of us headed to the train station to go to Sevilla. We got tickets about five minutes before the train was supposed to leave, and quickly got on. I enjoyed the train ride, but really didn’t see anything that great about it. People always say how great the train in Europe is. It’s just public transportation, not really an attraction. The area around Cádiz is low, swampy, and marshy, but as we neared Sevilla it got slightly hilly. After almost two hours we arrived, and got a map of the city. We had heard that there was a soccer game that night, but we also heard it was sold out. We were able to get tickets, so Ian and I decided we would stay that night, go to the game, and go back to Cádiz the next day. The girls didn’t want to go, but since there were four of them they felt comfortable going back to Cádiz without us. We ate in a mall food court, at an excellent Spanish chain restaurant called Montaditos. The menu looks like a pamphlet. You check off what you want, turn it in, and then wait for them to call your name. Each thing you order comes on a very small sandwich. Eating four or six is normal; if I was hungry I could have put down a dozen or more. Each of us got a wide variety of them, and for the most part everything was excellent. Most of the choices were some kind of pork, which seems to be the most common meat. I found the chorizo, a sausage that is somewhat like pepperoni, to be the best.
We spent the afternoon walking through the old city. I could write a book just about that afternoon in Sevilla, so I’ll just tell the highlights. The entire city is filled with orange trees. Every street and park has dozens of them. The Plaza de España, built for the 1929 World’s Fair. It was one of the largest and most beautiful buildings I’ve ever seen. It is covered with statues of Spanish historical figures, and mosaics from the major cities in Spain. It is surrounded by gigantic gardens, filled with sculptures and monuments. After that we went to the Cathedral of Sevilla, the third largest in the world. Besides its stunning interior, it holds Columbus’s tomb. The bell tower was the tower from the old mosque, capped with a Christian spire. The entire building is a synthesis of many types of architecture. We had dinner at a restaurant just outside. This time when I asked for the local beer I was told “San Miguel 1516” which was even better than the Cruzcampo. It was getting late, so we headed back to the newer part of town. Ian and I went to the stadium; the girls went to a bar to watch part of the game before they had to catch the last train back to Cádiz.
Now begins one of the coolest things I have ever done: a soccer game in Europe. This was also a playoff game. I wore my jersey that I bought earlier in the day. We were sitting in the lower deck, in one corner. The opposing team, Valencia F.C. scored in only the seventh minute. Sevilla played strong the rest of the half, tying it up near the end. After halftime, it went back and forth until Sevilla scored with only a few minutes to go. What happens next must be witnessed; I cannot come close to describing it. Soccer in Europe is more than just a sport; it’s a show, a spectacle, a way of life for millions of fans. Everyone was decked out in the red and white of Sevilla F.C. When they took the lead that city erupted. We sang, we danced, we chanted with thousands of Spaniards. It’s something that everyone should see in their lives. Sevilla F.C. I salute you.
The next morning we slept in, and then walked back to the old city to see the river, which we didn’t have time for the day before. We walked around some old watchtowers, the bullfighting arena, and then crossed the river. We were hungry, and went into a tiny bar called Jimmy’s for lunch. I ate a sandwich out of the tapas case, it turned out to be one of the best things I have eaten yet on the trip. We also got a plate meal, and split it. We ended up with a big strip pork chop, a sandwich, fries, drinks, and a kind of potato salad, all for 8 Euros. After that was finished, we took a taxi back to the train station, and then the train back to Cádiz.
That night on the ship we met back up with most of our group, and being a Friday, hoped that more places would be open then last time. We headed out, and after wandering for a while found a good looking place. That night I crossed something else off of my life goal list: absinthe. Everything they say about it is true. It’s green, tastes like candy, and makes you hallucinate. Next morning I found out from everyone’s stories how much fun we had, as I remember what I saw, but don’t really remember the real world.
We spent out last day in Spain hanging out in Cádiz. Nick, Chrissy, and I went to a grocery store, where I got a giant loaf of bread for only 65 cents. I ate it on the steps of the Cathedral as we hung out. We blew the last of our Euros at a pastry shop, and then Nick and I went to a Montaditos for one last meal, before heading back to the ship.
Spain was incredible, there was so much I did, and still so much that we did not have time to do. I don’t want to wonder about what I could have seen, had I gone to Madrid, or Barcelona, or even the things I didn’t have time for right near the ship. That’s the glory of this trip, I had a blast in Spain, and now I will be in Morocco tomorrow. I need to spend the rest of today getting ready for that.