Namibia

Namibia is one of the most incredibly beautiful places in the world. Since Morocco was our previous port, I had been on the continent of Africa, but this truly felt like Africa. Morocco is more like the Middle East. Namibia was everything that I expected, multiplied more than a hundred fold. On Saturday morning, the ship was docked in Walvis Bay. Early in the morning, we had a diplomatic briefing from two members of the U.S. Diplomatic Service. They told us the basics of Namibia, as well as security risks what we should expect as far as crime and safety are concerned. While this was going on, Namibian officials were stamping everyone’s passport. Afterwards, there was an African children’s choir that was performing out on the pier. We went out on the front of the ship and could watch them. They were going to come on the ship to see it, and anyone that wanted to talk with them could, but our trip was scheduled to leave at about the same time that they were coming onboard. I went back to my room, grabbed my pack, and then met in the Union at 10 in the morning. My roommate Matt happened to be on this same trip, as well as several other people I knew. Some of the same people from the Morocco camping trip were on this trip. We met our guide, Delfin, and boarded the bus. We drove through the town of Walvis Bay, which is quite small, and were quickly out in the Namib Desert. This part of the desert is incredibly desolate. In most places, there is not a living thing to be seen. Not even cacti or any desert scrub plants. The landscape is white and yellow sand, interrupted by massive gray and black rock outcroppings. We stopped at one of these, and we had some free time to explore the area. David and I quickly set out for the rocks, intending to climb up them. Lots of people were just milling around the bus, and we were on top of the outcrop before the bus was empty. Eventually most people made it up on the rocks. It was incredible to climb parts of them, or just to run along the top crest and jump from rock to rock. Our guides had intended to make lunch at this time, but they could not unlock the cargo door of the bus. They decided to keep driving and look for someone who could help out. We drove on, deeper into the desert. After an hour or so we came across some construction and road grading equipment on the side of the road. The driver got out, and went to talk to anyone who was there. He came back with a hammer and a piece of pipe and started working on the door. He got the door open, and fixed the lock, so we went onwards to a more hospitable area to eat lunch. We came into a part of the desert with more vegetation, at time bordering on grassland. Scattered trees began to appear. As the driver made set up for lunch, Delfin took us for a short walk out in the desert. The trees that we saw are known as Quiver Trees. They are hollow, even when alive, and then native Bushmen use the trees for quivers to hold their arrows. He also explained the animals that we had been seeing. We saw springboks, which are similar to antelope, ostriches, and oryx, the national animal of Namibia. Oryx are in the antelope family, but are very large. Lunch was sandwiches, but was still amazing.
After lunch, we drove through more of the desert. This stretch was the more vegetated area. Along the way we passed the Tropic of Capricorn. We had been in the tropics, but were driving south and passed the line. Then we stopped at Kuiseb Canyon for a view. Delfin told us the story of the Hanno Martin Shelter, a part of the canyon used by people for thousands of years. More recently, during World War II, two Germans hid there for two years before finally being captured. We had just gotten off of the bus when it started pouring rain. It was an incredibly rapid transition. Everyone was baking in the sun, and then absolutely drenched. We could not see the shelter, but the place was still incredible. The roads began to be flooded, at times there were large ditches washing out. Our driver did things in the bus that I did not think a bus was capable of. We drove to Camp Agama, where we would be staying. Agamas are a type of lizard, known for their red coloring. We saw some the next day. The rest of the evening was free time, so a few of us climbed a small cliff, onto the nearby plateau. The sky was mostly cloudy, so the sunset was not very clear. Dinner was excellent. We had some sort of white mush, that was described as being somewhere between mashed potatoes and grits. All I knew was that it was made from corn. We also had lamb, and some sort of sausage that we had no idea what animal it came from. Sitting around the campfire took up the rest of the evening, but no one stayed up very late, as we had to get up at 5:30 the next morning.
So on Sunday we woke up at 5:30 for breakfast, and then to leave early. The previous night was cloudy, but the morning was perfectly clear. The sun was still hours away from rising, so those of us who aren’t dead without coffee had some excellent stargazing. Seeing stars that I had never seen before was incredible. We looked for the Southern Cross, and actually had guessed it right when our guide pointed out which one it was. Being in Africa in the middle of the night is truly a unique experience. The views, the sounds of new and exotic birds, all surround you. It was one of dozens if not hundreds of experiences in Africa that cannot easily be described to one who has not seen them. Go to Africa. Get up in the middle of the Night. Walk around.
After a breakfast of toast we started our drive to Sossusvlei. The desert landscape was similar, but as we approached this region, it began to get sparser and sandier. However, the sand here is red, not white or yellow. We could see the dunes in the distance as we turned off of the main road and on the road to Sossusvlei. The entire road had excellent views of dunes along both sides. We saw the largest group of oryx, a dozen or so. Our group got to the end of the road at a little before nine in the morning. We had a five kilometer hike before we got to “Big Daddy” the tallest sand dune in the world. 1000 feet high of nothing but sand. Along the hike we went through a generally bare desert, with scattered acacia trees. We arrived at Deadsvlei, a barren, dry lake filled with the twisted skeletons of long dead trees. They don’t rot because there is virtually no moisture in the air. We were told to be back at Deadsvlei around 11:30, and then began to climb the dune. It was a steep climb to get up on the ridge, but once on the crest it is slightly easier to walk. Several of the guys and I set out quickly, got on the crest, and started towards the top. The initial scramble up the side of the dune took away most people’s energy. Most of the group made it to the first ridge and then turned around. Once you got onto the crest, the views were nice, but looking up at the very top was disheartening for some, as that point was less than one third of the way to the top. We plodded along, getting more strung out as we got. At every point we stopped, I could see people behind me on the dune, very small, and then those at the bottom were nearly invisible. For a while I was out in front. After the second dip down and then back up, the footprints stopped. No one had been higher than this for quite some time. Delfin said that the winds constantly blow, but it still takes several weeks to erase a footprint. From that point on, there was Delfin, and then four of us who worked our way to the top. Breaks were frequent, but the top kept getting closer, and the number of people behind us was getting lower and lower. At last, we reached the top, and stood highest in a sea of sand. Nothing but dunes of red sand as far as I could see. It was pure bliss, the mix of exhaustion, triumph, serenity. All in all, twelve out of thirty-two made it to the top of the world’s highest sand dune. We headed down a different ridge of the dune, and then once we were lower went straight down the side. There are several approaches to going down the side of a dune. Some walked in a side to side pattern. I think my balance is good, so I stood sideways and slid down, making it in about half of the time. Luckily no one fell. We regrouped at the opposite end of Deadsvlei from where we had started, and set out to cross its desolation. It was a long walk, but like the rest of the Namib, it was hauntingly beautiful.
We drove out of the desert after a brief stop for lunch, water, and snacks. The bus made a short stop at Sesriem Canyon. The name means “six belts” since it took the first explorers six belts tied together to lower a bucket for water down to the river. Sometimes the tours go down to the river, but the general consensus was that we were done for the day. The Namib Desert shows no mercy, and most weren’t prepared for it. We arrived back at our camp, hot and tired. There was a swimming pool, which most of us choose to enjoy. I had no swimming trunks, but I used my boxers since I had an extra pair. Rain was looming on the horizon, so we got out and headed to the camp lodge. The campground is run by a couple from South Africa. They enjoyed talking to college age students. They work with a program from Emory University that stays at their camp every summer for several weeks. We generally hung out, played pool or cards, and waited the rain out. Later in the evening, while dinner was almost ready, our guide Delfin got stung by a scorpion. He killed it and kept it with him, so that he could show it to someone at the clinic so he would get the proper treatment. Most people were wearing flip flops at the time, so they started freaking out and wanted to put on sturdy shoes. Dinner tonight was nothing particular Namibian. It was standard camp food, noodles and chicken stew. They provided us Namibian beer, and lots of people also bought cheap wine. We sat around for several hours, hanging out. Our bus driver, who had previously not interacted with us much, was talking to everyone. He was a really cool guy, very knowledgeable about Namibia, and very proud of his country. Namibians are very well aware that they have only been a country for less than twenty years, and all look to the future with bright optimism.
On our final day, we woke up and drove back to Walvis Bay. It was the same route as the first day, but the views still impressed me. We arrived back at the ship, and Delfin was going to go to the hospital to have his scorpion sting taken care of. After a quick stop to drop of my backpack, we went out into the town. We got some currency, and then ate at a small restaurant. It was run by a German woman. I got a sandwich and drink, and the entire meal was about $2.50 U.S. We walked around the town, which is very small, and mostly a port town. There is no real tourist area. We went to a grocery store, which is always fun in another country. Afterwards we found a small store, and then walked back to the ship after a few hours. Just outside of the port, women were selling all varieties of Namibian crafts, mostly jewelry and wooden carvings. All of it was nice looking, but at this time I had no more Namibian money. Most people came back with some pretty cool stuff. Then, at the port gate, dozens of Namibian men were attempting to get through. They need some sort of pass to work in the port facility. About five of us managed to get to the gate and with our ship cards got through. I then got back on the ship and said goodbye to Namibia. It is a wonderful country, full of beautiful scenery and incredibly friendly people. I am beginning to find myself at ease everywhere I’ve been. I would love to come back to Namibia, or if not, then definitely to another African country.